Surfing on Christmas
Sri Lanka's ancient capitals - part II., waves, waves, waves and surfing instead of decorating Christmas tree
Ho-ho-ho!
Kein Tannenbaum, no White Christmas and Jingle bells either, a Populuska a Perinbaba uz vobec nie!
We are surfing!!!!
After seeing Anuradharupa (although this time we were not so lucky and it rained almost all the time), which was another UNESCO-listed ancient historic capital of Sri Lanka – showcasing giant stupa (or dagoba, to be exact), the third tallest monument of its times (after 2 great Pyramids of Giza), we hopped on an express train from Anuradharupa all the way south to where Samo and Janka had been before and we had a loooooooooong ride. 332km in 10 hours and 20 minutes. And this was the “fast” train. Well, traveling by public transport anywhere else than in Europe, USA, Canada, Japan, Australia and New Zealand always means that you undergo certain adventure and command your life unto God’s will and hope that some time, some day, you shalt reach deliverance.
As we reached the coast and Colombo, Sri Lanka changed from immaculate green country to a more standard-Asian-looking place - sprawl of undefinable housing. But the south coast seemed less crowded and the views over the Indian Ocean opened up, with fine palm/sand/ocean panoramas.
We stay at Ram’s – a nice low key surfer hangout right at the beach, right in front of surf breaks. Yesterday – on 23.12.2012 - we went to Lazy Left, point break bit above my skills, but I managed to catch one wave, today – 24.12.2012 - we were in Weligama (next village) where we surfed one of the friendliest waves that I have surfed. Call it a lousy beach break, but I had really good time. My shoulders, and ribs are totally dead from paddling. I had it all – good waves, wipeouts and genuine “apocalypse” - as I call the situation when nose of your board pierces straight down into the water, during attempt to catch a bigger wave then you can handle, and then you are catapulted and locked in a washing machine, with waves rolling you upside down under the water, while you try to protect your head from being clubbed by the board foolishly jumping all around according to waves’ will, until you finally manage to stick your head out from the underwater washing machine and take that life rescuing breath.
This ain’t no white Christmas :-)
I got burnt like a sausage, so I look like regular Dutchman on vacation. Don’t trust Indian Lakshmi brand sunscreen, brothers and sisters, I might have as well used holy water for UV protection.
Since my stomach is still all shook up (although luckily, the situation got much better after the first night) and all they cook here is freaking spicy curry with rice and noodles, I gave myself a X-mas present: meat. Today I had chicken – the first meat since the first day of my journey. My stomach actually thanked me for not pouring another portion of curried vegetables. By the way, I think that the food in India is much better than here in Sri Lanka.
So instead of decorating the Christmas tree, we surfed and relaxed. Aaaaaahhhh, nice alternative I must say.
Now I’m turning the computer off, and I’m going to do some Hindu chanting at the beach and then meditate for a while before I go to sleep. Or do you think that Jesus will take it as an insult on this Holy Day?
(It’s difficult to balance my life between Jesus, Shiva and Zeus; while being a full-time atheist…)
Merry Christmas!
